Tuesday 21 May 2013

KL, Chanel and Beyond...



Karl Lagerfeld, a name synonymous with that double C logo, famous for rejuvenating the tweed suit with a few strings of pearls, gold chains and camellias.  Catching it post Coco on the way into potential obscurity and elevating it with the help of a few jaw-droppingly stunning ladies; Claudia Schiffer, Nicole Kidman... to name but a few.

Karl Lagerfeld however is not a name merely tied to his Chanel predecessor.  The workaholic with the acid tongue and widely publicised eating disorder has more than one string to his bow.  This is a man who supplies costumes for operas, designs sets, photographs and creates diffusion lines before breakfast.

Last week we received this little combo of early 90s de-constructed craftsmanship with all the signature nods to the numerous incarnations of that most famous of two-pieces... and a few rather interesting additions.  Note the two-tone sleeve, shredded skirt and concealed button fastenings.  Lagerfeld launched his own name in 1984 with the aim of challenging female intellectual sexiness after joining Chanel the previous year.

This piece epitomises the early 90s aesthetic of the working woman however the straight cut of the garment, mannish square pockets and two tone jacket can be seen in contemporary pieces also (see the Richard Nicoll piece left).  Let us not forget Lagerfeld took his apprenticeship with Balmain (image below right), this is a man who understands a sculptural silhouette, the ideas that this can project and the voice that it can give its wearer.
 









The KL suit (main picture) is an unusual slice of history with its references to the past and nods to the future and goes live on our Ebay shop at 9pm tonight. 

‘(Lagerfeld’s KL diffusion line), allows him the freedom he needs to dip into the delights of both mass-market and couture.’
-Vogue, Twentieth Century Fashion by Linda Watson